Mindanao... Zamboanga City, Philippines: Part 1!

After visiting islands on both Luzon and Visayas, it was time for my journey down to Mindanao to bloom! I remembered that night in 'Puerto Princesa' when a lady proclaimed she was from 'Zamboanga', for me that unlocked my never-ending curiosity for this part of the Philippines! Arriving into 'Zamboanga City' started my 'Chavacano' journey! Chavacano is a Spanish creole! 

It looked like paradise as my PAL flight swooped over some of the most idyllic scenes that I had ever witnessed, had I arrived into the land that time forgot? 'Pantropiko' it did look! I had been told many times not to visit Zamboanga, there's even a travel advisory for the region that I flatly ignored because danger surrounds us perpetually whether we like it or not! The pint-sized 'Aeropuerto de Zamboanga' threw Spanish at me in every direction, that was the energy I had wanted as the airport said 'Bienvenidos a Zamboanga!' I wasn't in Spain but 'Zamboanga Del Sur' was a region that still widely spoke the Spanish creole known as 'Chavacano', sharing similarites with Spanish spoken in places like 'Puerto Rico' and 'Cuba'. That first night saw me chow down on some super delicious food, heading the short distance to 'Gerrardo's', the 'Kaldereta' was delicious! Heading back to my hotel, 'L'Meridian Suites' for the night. I had a lot to see the next day! Zamboanga was ready to show me why those cruise ships need to return, Z! 

Bright and early the next morning I met with my 'iTravel Tourist Lane' guide, 'Mr. Errold Bayona'. 'Errold' would be my tour guide for the following two days and the driver would be staying with me until he dropped me off at my 'Dakkak Resort' in Zamboanga Del Norte' a few days later. On with the itinerary, we headed towards the 'Varadero de Cawit'. In Spanish and Chavacano, 'Varadero' means 'Shipyard' and that's what the Spanish encouraged when they docked in Zamboanga many years ago with their mission to set up a southern post within the Philippines. Zamboanga's had already been a ship-building yard before the Spanish set their anchor but they wanted to claim such waters to monitor vessels from pirates, weren't the Spanish the real pirates? Now, that is a question why 'Varadero' reminded me of a certain place in 'Cuba'. Needless to say that endless blue water view had me falling in love with Zam! What kind of Colonial mixing had taken place? People were looking Rican! Zamboangueño, or what?

Usually I am a hater of shopping whilst on holiday but something told me that I wanted to find out more about a certain local craft. You know that a story was about to be told to me, those 'Basilian Islands' were about to be mentioned! I found myself at the 'Yakan Village', a home to an ancient and intricate handwoven craft centre with many things to window shop! I was feeling flush, I wanted to spend up some of those Pesos because both Manila and Cebu had not broke my bank! I was amazed by the 'back to basics' machines that were being used, it was giving 'Hand Woven Realness!' The styles were so detailed with many items made from their Yakan style, I was spoiled for choice and then some! It was amazing to find out that the independent stores were managed by women, no men could be seen in the village setting because it was made up of 'female entrepreneurs' only! Of course, I bagged up a series of handwoven bracelets for the female staff at my kindergarten because sharing is caring. The Basilian were what? American!?

It was only after speaking with a local business owner and artisan in the Yakan Village that  certain historial facts were revealed. The lady pointed to her nose, it was elongated and narrow with a high bridge, she explained that her ancestors had been American soldiers who many had set up on the Basilian Islands. It was a quirky connection but in turn reminded us of the not so distant second Colonial power that had visited the Philippines, ever-shaping the features of the indigenous peoples. It was time for lunch, Errold suggested that we try something local. Sitting down for lunch presented something else, everything on the menu was 'Halal'. He chose the 'satay' dish as he explained certain influences from Malaysia had reached Zamboanga. I had mentioned about visiting Sandakan, he mentioned that part of Malaysia lay only a 16 hour ferry journey away. It made sense why I chosen to visit Sandakan as a part of my 2023 trip to Malaysia. My morning in Zamboanga was cultured, it felt right to be there after such planning! 

Before reaching 'Pasonanca Park', we stopped off at the 'Rainbow Mosque' in Camino Nuevo. I knew that there would be mosques in Zamboanga because it had a large Islamic population but a rainbow decorated mosque? No, I didn't believe it until I had saw it with my very own eyes, it was a combination that I thought I would never see in my lifetime! Officially named 'Masjid Al-Islamia', this colourful mosque has no connection to the community that I was thinking about, more like a pledge for peace and unity. This mosque was repainted in 2017 after the 'Marawi Siege', it was painted in bright colours to commemorate the fallen victims. The link remains that each colour painted resembles the many communities that exist and practice their faith in Zamboanga City, that is a statement good enough for me to get on board with. I couldn't deny that this mosque really stood out, for a religion that doesn't have anything positive to say about the LGBT community, I took that notion out of my head. So, such a mosque was amusing to see! 

I knew nothing about the 'Marawi Siege' but I did know that many travel advisors had been placed upon areas within Western Mindanao. What was the reason? Was it just blatant Islamophobia? Was there a serious threat to visitors to Zamboanga and the surrounding region? For me, those advisors didn't bother me, in-fact those warnings from my government made me want to visit Zamboanga and the region of Western Mindanao even more! I had already witnessed that Zamboanga was a melting pot of cultures, all sharing one 'Filipino' nationality. There stood a range of religions, foods and ways of living, nothing told me that people couldn't get on with each other due to those differences. I hope that the cruise ship industries return to Zamboanga and that those advisories are removed soon. No matter our religion or anything, we are all human beings and I believe we can find common ground. Zamboanga was showing me lots, it was an experience! I knew that my Mindanao journey had just started! Pasonanca, who?

Driving towards Pasonanca, I was about to learn about one former mayor and the Scouts. I somewhat knew that Zamboanga had been put under martial law for a period of time and that the army had basically controlled it for the longest period. Filipino people close to me and even a Manila taxi driver had told me not to visit Zamboanga, I understood what they said but 'martial law' was a thing of the past. I was then fronted by a tropical looking park, set within a lush neighbourhood that somewhat reminded me of Puerto Rico's 'El Yunque Rainforest', it was another cross-cultural moment in Asia's Latin City! Standing before the then closed 'Museo Integridad Cesar C. Climaco Park/Cesar C. Climaco Park Museum of Integrity'. I knew nothing about the man on the motorcycle, now I remember my guide Errold telling me about former Mayor Climaco. After my own reading, it was done in 1984 that he was shot in the head after attending the scene of a fire, there he was trying to ride away on his beloved motorcycle. Scouts? 

The first Boy Scouts in the Philippines was founded in Zamboanga City? Yes, 1914 saw this organisation founded by 'Lt. Sherman L. Kiser', this first troop were known as the 'Lorillard Spencer Troop'. I wasn't expecting to see those green huts as I stepped into the round next to the 'Pasonanca Tree House', I was about to be informed about some intriguing history. What were those identical green huts for? What did they mean? Now, after some reading to refresh my mind, I now can say those 24 green huts were built to commemorate the lives lost in a plane crash. Now, I also read that the first 'Scouts' were made up of all 'Muslim' participants, did this have something to do with the Americans wanting to convert the boys to Christianity? Before heading back towards the city, I was able to see the 'Pasonanca Tree House' it was giving 'Yankee' vibes! Now, I saw people in the park and they reminded me of my 'Puerto Rican' friends with their appearance! The first half of my day had been clocked, let's get back to the city! Go, Z! 

Zesty Zamboanga! 

Desperately Seeking Adventure