Dapitan & Dipolog: Zamboanga Del Norte, Philippines!

Dapitan or Dipolog City? Rizal or religion? Halo Halo or hotel? That final day of my Zamboanga del Norte adventure was about to come to a close, I still had more to learn though! Where did Dr. José Rizal spend his period of exile in Dapitan City? Had my tour been organised properly? Also was there a funeral being carried out at one of the churches I visited? Another crazy day! 

No word of a lie, I was only feeling 25% better on the morning of my Dapitan and Dipolog City tour. I wasn't playing, I needed a simple itinerary to experience for that final full day because another day at the beach sounded alluring if that tour happened to fall through. The tour didn't fall through and I was greeted by my tour guide, it was another 'overseas tourists don't come to this part of the Philippines, do they?' Yes, it was that kind of situation because I was open-minded because the tour company deserved that from me. The first stop was the 'Rizal Park & Shrine', this 'place of exile' was a hot topic for me to visit because I had heard that 'Rizal' had been held in Dapitan between 1892 through 1897 after fuelling the fires of the 'Philippine Revolution' against the ruling Spanish colonial authorities. Rizal kept himself busy during his period of exile, I went onto read that he worked as a doctor and helped create school for boys on the same site. Rizal did a lot more during his period of exile, I need to remember this correctly.

The 'Casa Residencia' became 'Rizal's' home for the whole of his exile. Rizal was able to reside there with his mother and sisters. I was able to see this wooden structure in all of its restored finery, adored with the Philippine colours, a massive sense of pride had been placed on this former home. Aside from working as a rural physician, farmer, merchant, inventor, painter, sculptor, archaeologist, linguist, teacher, architect, poet, biologist and environmentalist, it was evident that Rizal contributed immensely to his country to his last breath. How did he pay for all of these self-built and thought buildings within that 'park?' Rizal won the lottery and used the winnings to make a fully functioning community, leaving his mark even after his execution in 1897. In 1973, this park was declared a protected site, a huge restoration project took place to preserve this reminder that Rizal endured and gave back. The views over Dapitan Bay painted a different picture. Visiting that site allowed me to see why the Spanish were threatened by Rizal! 

The drive from 'Rizal Park' to Dapitan's centre wasn't long at all, I was shown two churches early on. Built to honour Dapitan's own patron saint, 'St James The Greater Church' has been a part of the 'Parish of Dapitan' for the longest time. It was part of Rizal's Sunday worship routine throughout this period of exile, a lesser known church for its exterior design, what lies within looked a lot nicer! As mentioned the exterior of this huge church served to be almost concrete looking but within the church, an intricate design had been fashioned with interlocking white and pink tiles on the ceilings. This church holds much of a legacy for Christianity within Zamboanga del Norte as the first 'natives' were converted by Spanish masonry after the diocese was incorporated within that part of the Philippines. Yes, this church was first built in 1831! Of course, I saw the 'Relief Map of Mindanao' outside of the mentioned church. This map is located within the 'Dapitan Heritage Zone' with Rizal making it during his period of exile. Interesting! 

From one church, I was shown another but I wasn't ready for what events that were going on inside. Crossing the perimeter lines from Dapitan to Dipolog was essential for me to see my next religious wonder, of the Catholic persuasion because we're talking about the Philippines! I was taken aback by the brick arches as I clocked Dipolog's 'Our Lady Of The Most Holy Rosary Cathedral'. Myself and my tour guide walked into the cathedral to find a service was taking place, what was the nature of that said service? A funeral? Now, that was their business because as soon as we had set foot in their I suggested we step back out again because that wasn't our place to be there. What a surprise! Now, from the outside I had more to say because this cathedral reminded me of Manila Cathedral in Manila's Intramuros! I was all churched out, I wanted to see another Rizal point of interest but it was over to the City Hall to see some of the former leaders who had managed this Philippine city! You know I always support the underdog! 

Crossing back over into Dapitan, it was like my day saw me travelling in every direction? I wasn't mad about that! Known in Spanish as 'Punto de Desembarco de Rizal en Dapitan' and in English as 'Rizal's Landing', there's only one story about that Dapitan landmark. The bronze statues signified the first steps onto Zamboanga soil after arriving on July 17th 1892 after Spanish colonial authorities had found a number of leaflets and literature spelling out why the Philippines deserved their independence from Spain. After much reading and after seeing this poignant monument, Rizal's place of exile kept him away from larger centres such as Manila or Cebu as his movement had caused a stir. The remoteness of Zamboanga del Norte posed as the perfect seclusion for Rizal to begin his period of exile, leading to his execution in 1897. Even in statue form, Rizal looked as handsome and put together as he had always been depicted. God only knows how he felt when that Spanish colonial controlled vessel arrived into Dapitan City? 

Who was Rizal accompanied with? He wasn't the only present statue within that 'landing' monument. Yes, he had been accompanied by the 'Guardia Civil', they were a component of the 'Spanish Civil Guard'. During the Spanish colonial period, the Guardia Civil' were part of the ruling army, showing their muscle towards Rizal, they wanted to ensure he arrived without deviation after he was deported from Manila. What was the boat that he was transported on to Daptian called? After yet more reading and serious investigation, I found out that the vessel that transported Rizal to Dapitan was called the steamer, 'S.S Cebu'. For me in that moment, I saw his statue radiating a educated defiance as the guards watched his every move, he had point blank refused the conditions of his stay in Dapitan with a certain letter from 'Father Pablo Pastells' to 'Father Antonio Obach'. No way would Rizal be following those commands, he made his own way during that period of exile with a self-made residence he built from the ground up.

'Cogon Eco-Tourism Park' confused me, I didn't know what I was expecting to see? I had just had some lunch and a little break, I thought that I was ready for the afternoons program but my energy was about to dip like never before! I had been a trooper during that day as I was still fighting what felt like a disgusting bout of illness, I was progressively getting tired and irritable. Back to to 'Cogon' because I did appreciate those tropical settings in one way but the steep hill didn't impress me because I was lacking in energy. I respectfully asked to return to the car, it was unfortunate because the scenery clocked from the car was extra special, truly from the air conditioned ride I could appreciate that only then. I wanted my bed and respectfully wanted to wrap up the tour, I had two more places to visit before I was taken back to Dakak. It was another unfortunate case because I was supposed to see a local snack being made but the factory was closed, only items in the shop were for sale. I needed something to cool down with! Halo Halo?

I was over it, I wanted to pack my bag and have an early night but one treat lay ahead of me before I returned to Dakak. Don't get me wrong, I had enjoyed the day even though some of the tour had been a bit hodge podge. 'Julie's' saved the day with a deliciously cool 'Halo Halo', that was a the sweet treat I needed to cool me down! I asked to return to my hotel with the quickness, we had one more place to see? The boardwalk? Oh, I chose to be extra and claim I was exhausted but really I wasn't being dramatic because I needed my rest before my mammoth journey back to Ningbo from Dipolog that would take me via Manila and Shanghai, I needed rest. I appreciated the boardwalk, I appreciated the whole day because both Dapitan and Dipolog both gave me something understated, educational and very worthwhile at the same time. I learned heaps about Rizal's period of exile with a greater level of understanding acquired thereafter. Dapitan and Dipolog had been clocked, it was time for me to leave the Philippines. I'm done, P! 

José 'Legend' Rizal!

Desperately Seeking Adventure