Sandakan: Orangutans, Sepilok Rainforest & Fireflies...

Located around fifteen minutes away from both Sandakan City and the airport, I found Sepilok. Unlocking the door to the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and an abundance of lush rainforest area. I was able to find a direct flight down from Kuala Lumpur to Sandakan, transporting me from the capital to a pocket of calm. After a chance 'Grab Taxi' meeting, a firefly cruise I took! 

I had not been impressed by my KL property, I really kept my expectations high as my airport taxi approached my 'Sepilok B&B'. Would that rainforest lodge type accommodation be everything that I wanted to be? To be honest, I was impressed because for the low price the settings were scenic and piratically silent. Birds were singing in every direction and a soft breeze passed through the immediate area, it was such a tonic to be in a location quite like that! I was under no illusion that my room wouldn't be fancy, the low price ensured I got what I paid for but that didn't compromise on my comfort. My double room was located a short walk from the reception/breakfast area and the private balcony was appreciated also. After checking out Sandakan, I was then allowed to check-in, the time in-between that was perfectly allocated. No, I wouldn't be having any uncomfortable bed to deal with because I slept peacefully both nights. I was ready to chill out, that B&B knew that I wanted to witness nature and breathe fresh air, SK! 

The nights were peaceful, the only noises that could be heard during those twilight moments were the rainfall and then the birdsong as the dawn broke. Breakfast was simple, it was easy to grab a plate of eggs and toast with coffee before I walked the short distance from the 'Sepilok B&B' to the 'Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre' amongst other rainforest wonders. After I had spent my time with those beautiful orangutans, sun bears and forest views, I returned to the B&B to have a few beers in the reception seating area. No issues arose until I had to catch my flight the following day, that wasn't the property's fault but of the taxi driver who had promised to take me to the airport ahead of my early flight to Kota Kinabalu. As much as the scenic area was darling, the lack of connectivity early in the morning rendered getting a taxi impossible. No worries, above all my rainforest stay was just what I needed. To truly have a location like that for a two nights stay was gorgeous, I still crave that level of silence in my daily life. Oh, Sandakan! 

During my Malaysia trip research, I knew that catching a glimpse of those endangered Borneo located orangutans had to be done! I realised that Sepilok's own 'Rehabilitation Centre' allowed walk-in visitors with no private tour needed to secure any tickets beforehand. Bright and early during my second day staying near Sepilok's own rainforest oasis, I was able to walk easy breezy from my B&B in about ten minutes. Aside from the street dogs, I loved that scenic sunshine walk because those climbs were balmy for a morning in December. I had spent the previous three Christmases in the United Kingdom with nothing but freezing cold conditions, it was a double gift to see those orangutans within such a pleasant forecast. Paying my coins at the rehab centre was easy enough, I had to lock away my bag for some reason? Not questioning that rule, I made my way into the thick of the rainforest conservation area. Borneo didn't realise I was in my own 'I'm A Celebrity... Get Me Out Of Here!' Honestly! Alright, it was about those orange beauties! 

It was imperative that I started my exploration at the feeding platform, it was like clockwork as each bag of fruits and vegetables were unloaded. At least six orangutans of all sizes descended upon those viewing levels, they were sleepy enough but when they saw their snacks it was like a full on spectacle! It was nice not to be in a zoo kind of situation but then it was like they were only present for the food, I appreciated that impromptu feeding time because those creatures were so beautiful. I then walked further into the forest, coming to a second point where more people were waiting for the second feeding time to take place. It was amazing to see those smaller orangutans swing down from the trees on the carefully placed ropes, they knew what they wanted! It was like no other sight I had ever witnessed before, people needed to have some damn respect and keep quiet like the signs and rangers told them to. For me, that sight made my year because those orangutans were gorgeous and so inquisitive at the same time. Oh, Sepilok! 

I had already decided that I didn't warrant going to the 'Rainforest Discovery Centre' because I had already paid entry fees to access the Orangutan & Bornean Sun Bear areas. Talking about 'Bornean Sun Bears' because those curious creatures were on my list to spot after those orangutans had been fed. It was only mid morning and I was smashing that day, taking a specific turn away from the orangutan centre allowed me to find those sun bears. I loved that rainforest setting equally, I was on the lookout for a certain creature that was called 'Joe!' Now, 'Joe' isn't my government name but its close enough, you already know that I wanted to see my namesake! Quite quickly I was able to locate that sun bear with almost the same name as me, he was a cutie! There were two of them and it looked as if they were living quite well, I took comfort that it was conservation area. I wanted to know whether these Bornean Sun Bears would ever experience life in the wild again? I really thought they looked like baby bears! OK, let me do my research! 

From diligent research, I have found out that the Bornean Sun Bears were brought to the conversation centre to ensure these creatures can be rehabilitated in their controlled environment. Allowing Bornean Sun Bears like Joe, Romolina and Logan to get on with their business together before they can be self-sufficient in the wild. It felt like both Bornean Sun Bear and Orangutan conservation areas continue to foster responsible tourism, being there to witness their valuable work felt good and also the small groups clearly were helping local guides and taxi drivers all the same. I had loved my self-guided rainforest experience, it was like a breath of fresh air to be surrounded by such nature without the trials of everyday life getting in my way. Sandakan had presented a lot to me in a very short space of time, it was very necessary for me return to my room because I needed to cool down before my evening boat trip. Sepilok changed the game for me, it forced me to do something different away from a modern capital. Let's go! 

The agreed time had arrived, that familiar taxi driver was there to take me on my 'Fireflies' boat trip. I was really excited to experience such an excursion, I really hadn't planned to add any extensions onto my day aside from the orangutans. It was only a short drive from my Sepilok B&B to the jetty, set amongst a very local feeling settlement along the river, I loved it! Before I knew it, I was cruising along the river with the ocean in the distance. I was joined by a another fellow traveller but other than that it was just the guide and boat driver. With maximum four people on the boat it was like a private boat tour for the win! Before I knew it, I was told to focus and hush up because a crocodile was floating near to the boat! I saw those bright crocodile eyes reflect on the water, it was a moment for sure! Cruising through that river situation towards the sea served 'Mangrove Realness' without compromise, it was like the boat was the only one for a really long way! My Sandakan day had been turned up a new level! Where were those fireflies?  

Those ocean settings had been switched on as the sun started to set, the ocean vista was like no other. The sky served many different colours, with deep purples and crimsons for my entertainment. We had briefly docked at a certain ocean-facing island that had a double shift of policemen stationed there. It was said that boats from neighbouring countries would try and offload their smuggled illegal cargo, also people were another smuggled commodity. It was such a gorgeous view and another reminder that my next destination was just a few hundred miles across the water with the Philippine island of Palawan located in the distance. On the way back to that Sandakan settlement, it was time for me to see those pesky fireflies because they loved the nighttime. Glowing like a bunch of glow sticks in a rave, I was able to see pockets of fireflies in their raw habitat. Our guide said that the low tides ensured that we would see more fireflies than she had originally thought we would have. Heading back to port, it had been a long day! 

O Is For Orangutan! 

Desperately Seeking Adventure