Rollin' On The River... Thailand: Kanchanaburi's Kwai!

Kanchanaburi really tried to bring 'Death Railway Realness' to my Bangkok sector of my trip to Thailand! I wasn't ready for those sombre settings, I just wanted to see that famous 'Bridge on the River Kwai!' You know I've been dying to clock that film reference! The Japanese really tried to bring suffering to neutral Siam, those Prisoners Of War did already suffer! The shade of it all! 

Hopping onboard that minibus way earlier than I cared to mention, I was on my way to Kanchanaburi to check out a curious river. Bangkok had been hectic, I needed to get out of the city for a day because I had some history to learn. Who built the former 'Burma-Siam Railway?' What did Japan do to the Commonwealth, American and Dutch forces during World War II? My visit to Kanchanaburi started with a visit to the 'Kanchanaburi War Cemetery', certain flashbacks of my trip to Belgium were relived for certain! I walked around the many grave stones, it was a very sombre sight and it was very pleasing to see people were being respectful. I for one know how to act whilst in a cemetery but you know in every walk of life there's always one bad apple in the bunch. It was giving 'Tyne Cot Cemetery' vibes the more time I spent there, it reminded me of the organisation that Belgian place of rest had boasted. What was the exact number of bodies laid to rest? I was talking figures! 5,085 fallen POW's have been buried at this cemetery. Deadly! 

I had been ignorant to Japan's former dealings in that part of the world, I knew about their dealings in South Korea and in the Philippines but never did I imagine they reigned their Empire near Thailand. Never, I had no idea! I had planned to visit several places along that full packed day, I had many thought-provoking things to see. Now, the cemetery was quiet and that wasn't anything bad for me because Bangkok had been abuzz from the moment I had landed almost three days previous to that Kanchanaburi moment. I soaked in the information from the guide on the bus on the way out of Bangkok but I wasn't prepared for the stillness of the cemetery. Little did I know that I was about to be presented some rather disturbing exhibits, some of which made me thankful I had missed breakfast that day! Where would we be heading to next? Talking of we, I was in a small group with other travellers from different parts of the world. Obviously, my colourful life posed many questions but I told no lies. Onto the 'JEATH War Museum?' OK!

Hellfire? I don't know her! I was sure that those Allied soldiers uttered those words to describe the unbearable conditions they must have existed in through their torture. This damn railway was what brought these men together, by force they were marshalled to carve a railway through the rainforest. Imprisoned by the Japanese forces, these men had every shred of liberty and life taken away from them. Now, I remember being told that my Great Granddad had served in Burma (Myanmar) during the Second World War but his stories definitely didn't paint a picture like those men would've. Most certainly, my Great Granddad didn't build a railway during his service because it sounded like he was enjoying his fair share of Dutch Courage instead! Listen here, I'm not mad that my relative wasn't caught up in this unforgivable moment in time, I felt lucky as I looked around the bamboo hut with that notion true. Tom did what he needed to do and got home to his family whilst others didn't. How I was disturbed, I wanted to know more! 

These unassuming soldiers were put through some unforgivable situations with abuse coming to mind. I learned fast that the Japanese really didn't have any trust in these POW's because these men were only allowed to wear loincloths, the method behind that madness was to stop them concealing any weapons to use against the Japanese. Forced to toil in tropical conditions, the men contracted a range of deadly tropical diseases and many died on the wrong side of the tracks, literally. Emaciated and looking like a bag of bones, it was giving 'Holocaust' with the camps the Japanese had constructed for these 'Railway Men'. Word was that the original film had glamourised the period with the blind trauma left out for the later produced 'Railway Man'. Even until today it has been said that Japan has never apologised for their barbaric ways, even Germany got it together when their past was brought to light! Yes, those photos disturbed me, I had not prepared myself for the dark-sided nature of this piece of history. Take me to the river!

Paying a few extra hundred Baht, I clambered into a speedboat, it was time to see that famous bridge! I wasn't mad that the boat ride wasn't included in my day tour, the fact I had the option to upgrade was fine with me. During their atrocious treatment, the Allied Forces literally dropped like flies as many couldn't cope with the climate and hellish conditions. As the Japanese wanted the railway completed, they drafted in over 200,000 indentured workers from their occupied territories such as; 'Malaysia, Indonesia and Burma (Myanmar) to complete the railway. Back to those calm waters, the boat trip from the museum to the 'River Kwai Bridge' served tranquil views with nature galore. I truly felt like I was in 'Amazing Thailand', it was a brief moment of positivity because the perils of this area had been hushed. The infamous bridge came into view, not the actual one featured in the film but I had no reference so it was fine. The boat circled several times before it docked, giving me the perfect photo opportunity. I saw land! 

We had some free time to explore the bridge and the immediate area, the train would take us to 'Sai Yok'. I was able to walk along the bridge, with the knowledge how the original structure had been built. Many other visitors were walking along the bridge, it wasn't chaotic because people were well mannered and gave way when they were supposed to. I made it to the middle of the bridge before turning back, I didn't want to miss the train as I was already a long way from Bangkok! After doing some further reading, I have found that the RAF (Royal Air Force) along with other Allied Forces destroyed this bridge in 1945 as retaliation against those who had forced their men to build the railway. It felt right that those who had lost their lives had not died in vein, their men swooped in and destroyed that symbol of shame and suffering! The original film had used a different bridge, in-fact that bridge had been built in Sri Lanka! Boarding the train on time, it was extraordinary to cross the bridge fully. Oh, the gall, audacity and the nerve! 

Setting off on a forty minute train journey through picturesque farmland had to be done, it was a weird feeling if truth be told. Sat in a more comfortable class on the train impressed me much, I even had the chance to purchase some snacks and a drink! Sure, I did feel some kind of way because that original railway had been built under forced and unjust circumstances. One of the women in the group made a very good point, she said; "We must remember the fallen by taking this train even thought it feels wrong". She had a point, I made the best of it because those views were lovely, I had even bagged my own window seat! I had a little laugh to myself as that Hellfire Pass bound train trundled along the track, Myanmar was just over the way! I had been advised against travelling to Thailand because of a certain human trafficking scandal, did I listen? Why? No British Nationals had been entangled in that mess! I looked out of the window with my GPS clocking the Burmese border, I laughed! On with the journey, I loved that train ride! Next stop?

I heard whispers that the train we were on had travelled all the way from 'Thon Buru' in Bangkok? Yes, the Thai government had bought back the Thai section of that historic railway. Word on the street was, Bangkok wanted to restore the Thai section for commercial and commemorate enterprises. Attracting tourists, remembering the fallen and keeping local people moving sounded like the plan? Well it was! Wang Pho Viaduct, who?! I didn't know her! Of course, that viaduct had been built by slave labour like the rest of the original railway! The train passed over those 'Death Pass' tracks, people were able to walk along those wooden tracks with a sheer drop facing them on the other side, were they sure? I wanted no part of it! Stepping off the train, I did not appreciate the honking the driver made for us to get out of the way, it was very pointed! A buffet meal was served, I was able to enjoy my plate with a gorgeous view! The whole day had been very educational and thought-provoking, it had been a lot! Back to Bangkok? Yes!

Some Shady Business! 

Desperately Seeking Adventure