Northern Ireland: Belfast's Gaeltacht Quarter... Catholic To The Core?

Belfast had already showcased 'The Shankill' to me, I saw it fit to transition from that 'Unionist' neighbourhood. I didn't want to see another Union Jack flag, Belfast's 'Gaeltacht Quarter' would serve up several 'Republican' Tricolour flags, indeed! No, there would be no question about the matter! Returning to the 'Falls Road' was a must, I wanted to do things at my own pace. Go, go! 

Walking down Northumberland Road allowed me to pass one of the maximum security gates, signifying that I ventured into a Catholic area. The flags flying in that part of Belfast were 'green, white and orange'. People within the Gaeltacht Quarter supported the need for Ireland to be reunified to become a 'United Ireland', standing staunchly against Northern Ireland's presence in the United Kingdom. The 'Democratic Unionist Party' otherwise known as the 'DUP' wouldn't have been the political party of choice, those West Belfast votes were likely for 'Sinn Féin'. 'SF' had just won at the polls, their leader 'Michelle O'Neill' is certain that in the future there's going to be a new 'United Ireland', ending the power-sharing arrangement with the Unionist ruling party. Now, those murals took on a different theme, adopting a theme of hope and peace, many murals expressed solidarity with other 'said' conflicts such as the Israeli invasion of Palestine to name a few. As the morning transitioned into afternoon, many extremes had been served up! 

I felt a duty to return Falls Road, I wanted to revisit the mural of 'Bobby Sands MP' because it made such an impression on me when I saw it in 2013. The narrative wasn't 'No Surrender', it was all about 'Freedom', to celebrate and commemorate those who had gone to extraordinary lengths to protect the liberty of their fellow Irishman. Bobby Sands MP wasn't the only person to make mountains move during the Troubles, others joined him by going on hunger-strikes. It was refreshing not to witness murals that had 'UVF' fighters staring back at me down the barrel of a gun, the murals in West Belfast had an educational flex applied to them. I wanted to know more and after visiting that corner of Belfast in 2013 so briefly, a return in 2022 had to be made possible! Both sides of the communities did what they saw right, both sides fought for their cause and both sides lost loved ones. Regardless of religion or nationality, the horrors of the Troubles need not be repeated! No need to look over my shoulder in the Gaeltacht Quarter. OK!

As mentioned before during my time spent along the 'Shankill Road', I tried to visit 'West Kirk Presbyterian Church' but Jesus had clearly taken a day off. To bolster that element of unwanted attention, I focussed my efforts to see inside a Catholic kind of church around the Clonard. I never realised that the 'Clonard Monastery' had existed during my 2013 initial visit to Belfast's Gaeltacht Quarter, the taxi tour cared not to mention it. Why not? Like a prayer, I made sure that I took myself there! Opened in 1911, the Clonard Monastery has so far served West Belfast's Catholic community for the las 111 years. I found that the monastery door was open, for me that was a major success because I had wanted to experience at least one place of religious significance that day. I was bowled over by the amazing French Gothic style architecture inside the Clonard Monastery, not taking sides but Catholic churches always look better when it comes design and those key details! Belfast, I'm not religious but I loved the Clonard without question! 

I absolutely took sanctuary within West Belfast's Clonard Monastery, taking at least ten minutes to sit down for some quiet contemplation because I could! You already know that Belfast will be getting a 'Like A Prayer' blog feature without a doubt, the Clonard will take centre stage because it was ready for me to see it in all of its glory, no doors were locked for me unlike those Church of England places of worship. Like a flag, like a language, it was clear for me to see that religion stands as key badge of honour for those on the other side of the Peace Line in West Belfast. It was such a relief to know that restrictions had all been dropped before my visit to N.I, not impacting my visit to the Clonard. Not even the Pandemic would be able to stop me! For me it was lovely to sit back and take in the features of the monastery, it reminded me of the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Consuelo I had visited in Atea, Spain during January 2022. Did I need to go to confession? Yes, I should have done, there's always a tale to tell! Go raibh maith agat! Yes!

Bombay Street and the Clonard Monastery were literally seconds apart, not making that correlation back in 2013 had me feeling stupid in that 2022 moment! How had I not picked up the Clonard Martyrs Memorial Garden featured another point of significance so near from where my 2013 taxi tour had stopped? I needed to take a second to get over that directional mishap! Relearning the history of the fire that burnt down all of the houses along Bombay Street all over again had me feeling some kind of way, I had not long been in the 'Shankill Road' area where Loyalists had sent their firepower over the walls into Bombay Street in 1969 on the 14th day of August. To see the decorated memorial feature both Irish and English bolstered the need for the Irish Language Act to be made official because signs and displays in Catholic areas in Irish should stretch across the whole of Northern Ireland. Seeing the faces of the young who had died in the fires along Bombay Street brought it home that the Troubles mustn't be forgotten. Never!  

It was interesting to see the reactions of the taxi tour customers as they were being told about the massacre of Bombay Street. I had heard the story for myself back in 2013, it was a brutal one so I didn't feel it was right for me to listen to the details that were being recounted to them. I marvelled at the wall, it had me feeling sombre, before that 2022 visit to Belfast I had watched such documentaries that showed some walls in Belfast being torn down. During my taxi ride back to Belfast International Airport, my taxi driver told me that the main Peace Line still remains as a barrier between the Shankill and West Belfast because visitor numbers are high and in turn they bring a lot to the economy of Belfast. I really would love to see a Belfast that comes together, a city where both sides of the community can get along even if they don't feel the need to communicate with each other. The actions on the night of the 14th of August 1969 must never be forgotten but there must be a way to go forward! As to integrate the community as one!

Making up good time, I took the Glider from Falls Road to Falls Park down to Andersontown. I had found 'Mc Enaney's during my pursuit for pubs within the Gaeltacht Quarter and beyond. Mc Enaney's 'Monday Club' had been the reason behind my chosen day when I visited, I wanted to benefit from the '3 pints of Guinness for £10'. As well as that drinks promotion, I asked about the stew I had seen on their social media channels but during that 'Monday Club', unfortunately no stew had been made. Settling down with my first three pints, I quietly observed the bar area with much curiosity. Having a very English accent wasn't the mood for me, I chose to say as little as possible until I could fully read the room. With no stew being served I found that there was a Pringles machine, now that machine saved me so I could carry on with that Guinness drinking session! I would have something to eat later on that evening, the previous nights takeaway location would do! The mood at McEnaney's was chilled, I had made the right choice! Another? 

The day had taken many twists and turns, most of then being directional factors throughout my navigation from the City Centre to 'The Shankill' then over the Peace Line to 'West Belfast'. To be sat at my table near the bar at McEnaney's felt correct, I allowed myself to relax but still for research purposes I listened well to those nearby conversations. During my 2013 visit, the taxi driver who navigated my black cab through those divided streets had already said to me that Catholics would welcome any kind of person into Catholic run bars as long as they respected the establishment. He went on to express that Protestants wouldn't extend the same invitation to a person who was outside of their culture. I could see why I was attracted to McEnaney's with their Irish Nationalist customers drinking together without any issues. I felt that no issue would come of an English person being present, I had no agenda but just to enjoy the vibe and drinks. Sinking 9 pints of the 'black stuff' felt right for me, those King Billy remarks had me laughing! 

I Love West Belfast! 

Desperately Seeking Adventure