Sunday Service... Belfast, Northern Ireland: What’s The Craic?

Of course, the day had been long but I wanted to put my coach trip tiredness to one side! I wanted to see what Sunday evening had in-store for me in Belfast City Centre, a pint of Guinness awaited me at my first port of call. She was jealous of my Britishness? Yes, she wanted receipts to prove my Belfast family connection! OK! Belfast, what was the craic? Why the drama, though?

Having at least one night out on the tiles with live Irish music had to be done, had I not travelled over the Irish Sea to sit in my hostel dorm? No! Prior to my Belfast, Northern Ireland arrival, I had spent some serious time researching certain city centre nightspots. My plans to visit Henry's just didn't seem like the right ones to execute, after stepping down from my McComb's coach I made my way over to the 'Dirty Onion & Yardbird' with the promise of live music being played that Sunday evening. My lunch had filled me up, well it was maybe an early tea but keeping to the mantra that 'eating is cheating', I made those 'Tayto Crisps' the perfect go-to with a pint of ice-cold Guinness. I figured out that a 'Sunday Service' would give me the best chance to recapture the essence of those childhood memories when I lived in an Irish pub in Wolverhampton, England. There's always a method to my madness! Belfast knew what I wanted to experience, Belfast sure came through with the goods for that 'Sunday Service!' Let's get it, B! 

'Dirty Old Town!' The two young musicians played their instruments and belted out a few 'neutral' Irish sounding songs for those at the 'Dirty Onion' to enjoy! Now, that Guinness tasted like silk, nothing like the stout I had enjoyed in England, nothing short of heaven! I got into my pints and enjoyed my crisps with the weather playing ball, the late spring evening felt like summer with no wind chill, the evening felt right. I had cottoned on, Belfast City Centre welcomed all of the city's residents and those from other N.I counties but with a 'neutral' setting. Religion wasn't for the city centre, with that in mind I wouldn't be hearing any songs like 'The Fields Of Athenry' nor 'Come Out Ye Black And Tans'. The music carried on, it was amazing to see the young of Belfast come out and dance to the live Irish music with no worries conveyed. The ladies stayed true to their figure hugging dresses, they paid no mind to anything else, it was nice to see no competition. The Guinness tasted correct, another and another sounded divine! 

I was minding my business, listening to the music and enjoying my drinks to the fullest, but was I the drama? Tell me Belfast! Two middle aged ladies were drinking their bottles of wine, minding their own business like I was but one had enjoyed her vino good and proper! I had politely spoke to the quieter lady, I wasn't in the headspace to ignore anyone, it was not the mood for me. Her friend though, well as soon as she found out I was from England with ancestors who had been born in Belfast, well she wanted to become some kind of 'Ancestry' know it all. Oh, I had receipts with nothing to lose, nor anything to prove! Birth certificates for days, they had 'Belfast' as the place of birth! Her tone was rather sharp and to be honest I wasn't going to rise to her! I later asked a friend of the family from N.I about the ladies bitterness. Being from 'Holywood', he said that she was most likely 'Protestant' and was threatened that I had been born and bred in England with true N.I connections to boot. Receipts? O, I had plenty! 

Before the lads played 'Whisky In The Jar', I jumped back into 'The Second Fiddle/An Dara Fidil' where I had originally asked about the 'Traditional Music' to have a drink away from that 'not so delightful' woman. I had a good laugh with the girl who was behind the bar, she absolutely couldn't understand how someone could be so nasty. I enjoyed my pint and enjoyed the quiet nature of Belfast's 'An Dara Fidil', I loved the frames that were on the wall! The decor and feel of the 'Second Fiddle' reminded me of a few places that were also in the city, my research had definitely not been for nothing! The Guinness and Whisky artwork had me casting my mind back to when I was that child who lived in that once familiar Irish pub in Wolverhampton, England. That 'Sunday Service' had me reminiscent of those former childhood memories. Before heading back towards my hostel, I popped back to the 'Dirty Onion' to hear the last of the 'trad' music! I loved it, both great venue regardless of that genealogical situation! 

If truth be told, I had no intention going back to my hostel because it wasn't even 10 P.M. yet! That morning I had clocked 'Robinson's' as I waited for my McCombs Coach, I definitely wanted to try that 19th Century 'Titanic' style establishment! Walking into Robinson's had me feeling those 1890's vibes and then some, those period settings served something truly Belfast! Ordering another pint of Guinness had to be done, sure another packet of 'Tayto Crisps' would need to be consumed, a kebab would be the last order of the night! Taking some time to capture the essence of that Belfast nighttime vibe during that Sunday Service had me living, things were all falling into place! Damn right! Feeling like something was hiding behind those 'Saloon Doors?' Robinson's, what were you hiding from me? Sure, I wanted to see what was going on! Walking through those doors allowed me to meet 'Fibbers', that Belfast nook inside 'Robinson's was alive with the sound of 'Traditional Irish Music' for all to hear and enjoy! That endgame was worth it!

The music had people dancing, sure I had a little jig because when in such an establishment, why not? The songs were kept within the lines of 'neutrality' as far as no 'Irish Rebel Songs' would be played but I knew that I was in the wrong part of town for that sound to be heard. The 'Belle Of Belfast City' had me living that fantasy because I wanted to hear that song the most! Yes, the drama had dissipated with a wave of good vibes and craic served by Robinson's own Fibber Magees! I found myself talking to a couple who were in Belfast for the weekend from the Irish Republic, they expressed how much cheaper it was for them to have a weekend of merriment in Northern Ireland for a much lower  price! I sensed that many others from the South made those cross-border weekend trips to the North. Their choice not mine! As my Sunday Service saw the lights being turned back on, I made my way out of Robinson's after enjoying that venue to the fullest. Making it back to my 'Botanical Backpackers Hostel', sure a kebab shop sorted me out!

Belfast... Thanks For The Craic! 

Desperately Seeking Adventure