Rollin' On The River... China: Quanzhou's Jin!

Quanzhou wasn't about to play me for a fool, alongside Adam we had an itinerary that would be stuck together like glue! From oyster picking grandmas, a 'Maritime Silk Road' and buzzing temples all stood before me, I wanted to get to the bottom of that current 'River!' Those May Day Holiday crowds weren't about to rattle me, Quanzhou knew I was ready for them! Rollin' On!

Meeting Adam early the next morning, we headed towards the banks of the '锦江/Jin River' towards Quanzhou's '蟳埔村/Xunpu Village' to first see those oyster shelling grandmas. I had seen many photos online and therefore I wanted to see this sight with my own eyes, you already know that seeing is believing! Taking a taxi at our own pace was a whole mood, we had a time-plan but it wasn't strict like a tour group, there was no need to worry about timings. Beating the madness would be a difficult thing because like me, a serious amount of people also wanted to see the same daily happening like me beside the river. I felt privileged that I was able to see these grandmas go about their business, they were doing this 'old school' task because their daughters and granddaughters had given this tradition the cold shoulder. Low key, I don't blame those younger generations because picking oysters wouldn't be for me also! Something about that first angle wasn't giving, I needed to get closer to those pickers before the crowds grew larger! 走吧! 

For me, it was great to witness this daily occurrence alongside the 'JinJiang River' because that piece of China's former 'Maritime Silk Road' served up a whole history lesson for me! Those women went about their business like nobody was watching them, for me it was great to be at a respectable distance because I wouldn't appreciate people up in my business while I'm trying to do my job. I would learn quickly that oysters and their shells owed a lot to Xunpu's success as a tourist honey pot, it was going to be something else for me to see also! As time went by, more grandmas came to sit on the steps that led into the waters of that mentioned 'river'. People were really eager to get their photos but those grandmas took no foolishness, they were honest because they had a job to execute! It was a cultural moment for me to cherish, exiting at the right moment, I was content with my photos as the morning pressed on. Descended from Arab sailors? The residents of this village shared ancestry with those 'Maritime Silk Road' merchants. 

A blooming miracle? As I moved away from the banks of the Jinjiang River, it didn't take long before I saw the local ladies with brightly coloured flours in their hair. Fashioned into a floral crown of sorts, it was said that exotic flowers from the many visiting vessels would influence such choices. In present day, the older ladies still adorned themselves with those flowers but a famous Chinese actress had catapulted this once sleepy oyster reliant village to become a viral sensation. Chinese actress, 'Zhao Liying' had been seen wearing such flowers in her hair during a seemingly normal visit, dressed in a local flowing dress from the local minority people. Her photo made it into the hearts and travel plans of many beauty obsessed Chinese women and also men! Xunpu Village became an overnight sensation with many floral parlours opening up on every corner, dresses to match became the thing to also rent alongside those floral crowns! Wreaths! That was the word that I was looking for! Did I join in? No, I definitely did not! Crazy! 

Bucking the trend, it was a photographers paradise because those lovely ladies wanted their photos snapped, professionally! I could see that this ancient accessory had become a modern commodity and business tool for the local businesses that were profiteering from this flower powered boom! It was a lot, I had to duck and dive to not be featured in a few photo-shoots! Those oyster shell houses impressed me much, it was interesting to see such a naturally robust item being used. Those small yet tightly packed shells looked strong, more than bricks and mortar, I would say. The village really shone through, it was actually something to be a spectator because the women were having the time of their lives but their male companions didn't look impressed whatsoever! Sure, those packages didn't look cheap! Quanzhou schooled me that morning, I knew more about those oysters and flowery wreaths than ever before! Moving on, it was safe to say that Quanzhou's city centre would be bursting at the seams! I was ready for it all! 

Visited by the great explorer, Marco Polo? Yes, it was said that Italian fellow arrived into Quanzhou some 700 years ago with the 'a melting pot' vibe served according to Polo! Now, I knew that religion would be a sure fire topic during my day spent exploring Quanzhou, referenced as a 'World Museum of Religions'. From the riverside, myself and Adam headed over to '关岳庙/Guanyue Temple', popular it was with the May Day visitors I respectfully clocked that thriving place of worship from a mindful distance. A Sri Lankan connection? Yes, as China's soft power rose during the days of this ancient 'Maritime Silk Road', a Sri Lankan prince found himself in Quanzhou after a voyage from his then native land. From there on this Sri Lankan prince fell in love with a Chinese Muslim princess and the rest was history, literally! Quanzhou's muscle along that business-minded waterway changed the game, making it one of the biggest ports in the East! A mosque? O, Quanzhou's '清净寺/Qingjing Mosque' Halalified the situation! 

It was decided that a coffee and cake break sounded much better, we sought refuge in that cool coffee shop away from the unforgivable humid weather! I loved the informal street market that had been set up over the way from that coffee shop, it gave me a sense of home because we love a good boot-sale in England! Heading over to the 'Quanzhou Maritime Museum' truly unlocked what the ancient 'Maritime Silk Road' actually was in real terms! I wanted to know every single detail about that muscle! Spanning from Quanzhou to as far as Iraq, even before the Suez Canal's inception this shipping route had many ports of call from Malacca, Cochin and Aden. Taking in ports from as easterly as Japan, southerly as Indonesia, this oceanic wonder kept Zheng He's fleet of ships trading and acquiring goods from as far back as the 1300s. With the Suez Canal in the picture, vessels could sail from China continually to Continental Europe. It was interesting to see tombstones that commemorated Muslim, Hindu and Christian seafarers. OK!

Bidding a fond farewell to Adam, I thanked him for his time and expertise because his knowledge and guidance had ensured everything on the plan had been executed. From that moment, I decided to head towards the final temple on my list, being one with a very 'Instagram' worthy setting. My local recommendations app was trying to show me some heavily edited view over '西街/West Street' with '开元寺/Kaiyuan Temple' in view. It was positively buzzing, I weaved in and out of those crowds almost as skillfully as the 'artful dodger' had done in 'Oliver!' Yes, that was down 'West Street' because I had already visited 'Kaiyuan Temple', I wanted to leave no stone unturned even though it was getting pretty busy with those holiday crowds. I paid my dues for that photo, in the form of a beer I was able to stand on the rooftop to take a photo, shame that was with my older iPhone! I wasn't going to wait in that rooftop line because I snapped my photo quickly, I knew what to do and what not to do! Q'zhou, I was getting hungry! 

I was no stranger to the 'other side' of West Street because I had found a nice little bar the previous night, my first night of libations had to be cut short because naturally I had things to do the following day. My VPN connection also died, that left me feeling less in the drinking mood, naturally I wasn't mad in the end. I gave West Street another chance as the final evening of May Day holiday arrived, I bar hopped and then before it got boozy I stopped for an oyster omelette. An aquired taste for some but I really enjoyed it, sustained I headed back to a familiar bar where I was able to get some training in for my trip to Belgium. I saw many faces, made some new friends and even saw a rather hot guy play a few songs live. Quanzhou was the gift that kept on giving, also my VPN connection stayed true during the second night and I appreciated that! Brothers Cider? Oh, you know that I enjoyed that bottle of 'Toffee Apple Cider' very much! Heading back to Ningbo the next day feeling delicate was no surprise to me! Questionable, QZ?

Trust In Adam! 

Desperately Seeking Adventure